Friday, May 29, 2015

A South African Road Trip: The Garden Route

Driving from Cape Town to Port Elizabeth and the stops in between.

Renting a car and driving on the left side of the road (with Africans constantly sprinting across) is no small feat, but overall one of the best ways to see, feel, smell and taste South Africa. The first two stops are included in the Hop On Hop Off bus tour, otherwise, grab a Toyota and explore a little more.

Stop 1) Constantia. An incredibly beautiful area up and around Table Mountain, you can easily take a bus 30 minutes, stop off for wine tasting/lunch and continue around the wine country.

Groot Constantia

Groot Constantia

Stop 2) Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens. Literally the next bus stop, you can spend a whole afternoon exploring the Jurassic Park like gardens, which actually display dinos and loads of exotic flowers.

Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens- Tree Canopy


Stop 3) My favorite. Vergelegen Estate. There is too much to say here, so I will expand in another post. Absolutely breathtaking views (even though Spring is the best season, still incredibly colorful), pristine gardens and naturally the food and wine are top notch.

Vergelegen Gardens

Although not pictured, the vineyards are far up on the side of the mountain.

Stop 4) Okay, not a stop, but the actual drive is an attraction itself. Mountains and valleys guide the route almost entirely to Mossel Bay. Elephant, wild cat and ostrich parks are scattered along in case you need a break from the wheel. For bigger thrills, bungee jumps and tree canopy walks are squeezed in the valleys- or use a day in Gansbaai for shark diving.




Stop 5) Mossel Bay. Not a whole lot going on from what we could tell, especially with a energy cut interrupting night time activities, still a peaceful coastal town.

The small hike up to the Point's light house.

Looking out of a tiny rock cave.

As neat as the rocks are, make sure to get an upper "sea view room" or else rock is all you'll see.

Stop 6) Before arriving to Port Elizabeth I must give out some honorable mentions to Plattenberg Bay, Wilderness and many other places along the way. The towns and bays on the route were almost too cute, like they knew exactly how to suck travelers in for a few drinks. Even the small villages had something to offer- mostly for purchase- but still they were all so charming.

Many cafes were filled with South African items for sale.
Same cafe in an unknown town directly on the Garden Route.

A Dutch/African fusion cafe in Plattenberg Bay with wine, books and cakes for sale (terrific sea view as well).


The Finale) Port Elizabeth was an interesting end to the trek. I expected the consistent row of modern, clean South African towns, but being there for half a day doesn't really give you a true impression of the city. PE is industrial with a busy port. Going further out of the center you run into a more beachy, quiet environment that is reminiscent of the African bush.

Above the city center in PE.


I definitely wanted more time at each stop. At least a day extra per town would have shaped my experience a little better. Having to use candles at the Cafe Havana in Mossel Bay was funny, but I would have liked to have seen the quirkiness of the town at night. Plattenberg Bay has many touristy activities around the area, but also magnificent beaches that even in their Autumn weather would be nice to relax on. Port Elizabeth is stretched out, and although the city center was not my favorite, there was plenty to enjoy on the coast line, especially the food, I happily found out.

The two day road trip provided plenty to seen and enjoy, but for the optimal experience, double the time. Use the incredible wine estates that cover the first three hours of the trip for a full day of tasting, tours and food. Stay and relax at the estate if you can before rounding the mountains. A night on one of the reserves between CT and MB would also be suitable. Detour to Oudtshoorn for the ostrich experience of a life time- so say the brochures. And make sure to try every new food and wine possible. I find the ostrich and crocodile a bit chewy, but the springbok paired with a nice Pinotage is to kill for; and luckily for us Americans, it is entirely affordable.





Monday, May 11, 2015

Where Vegas Doesn't Lack Taste: the Kitchen

In the land of the synthetic, I must give credit to what actually stands true: Vegas chef's know how to please. If not for the totally attractive lure of losing all of your savings, you should go to Vegas for the food. In a highly competitive strip, any restaurant will satisfy- though be prepared to spend a pretty penny on topnotch dishes.

In particular, the Bacchanal Buffet at Caesars Palace. A spin off on the name of the Roman demi-god Bacchus (Greek: Dionysus) who represents wine, fertility, religious ecstasy and theater. Bacchus himself could be the symbol of Vegas, but the buffet was indeed a delightful show put on three times a day for hundreds of eager eaters.

I spent two hours nibbling away at 31 entrees and sides (evidence will follow). Although there were about 15 more meats, salads, soups, cheeses and seafoods I could have tried, I stuck with the following plates: Asian (Thai, Japanese & Chinese mix), Italian, Mexican, American and a dessert platter, of course.

I'm not exaggerating when I say that I was so rightfully stuffed that I wasn't able to eat again till brunch the following day. When the price to enter is around $45, you get your money's worth... and more.


Dim Sum, Tamagoyaki, spicy tofu, fried duck & eggplant, rice noodle rolls, Thai chicken and sauteed veggies.

Scalloped potato stacks & spinach, ricotta ravioli.

Roasted garlic, onions and peppers*, Chicken in green Pipian sauce, spicy beans, pulled pork and a yellow tomato.

Mini Wagyu slider, bacon wrapped lamb in yellow lentils and mashed potatoes with filet mignon and gravy.*

Fried chicken and fries in a waffle, tuna ceviche*, broccoli, potato confit and roasted veggies.

Thai seafood salad.

Thai iced coffee and black sesame ice cream.

Mango sorbet, blackberry & pistachio cupcakes, green tea cookie & chocolate mousse.



Guy Fieri's Vegas Kitchen + Bar
At this restaurant, located inside of the Linq hotel and Casino, we decided to avoid the classic (although award winning) burgers and opted for a less intimidating meal. To be fair, two obese topless women stood across from our table, which highly disrupted our appetites. When in Vegas?


Italian deli salad, prosciutto- wrapped smoked provolone

Chili bowl + sweet corn bread. In the background: ahi tuna, mango salsa with wasabi aioli.*

The salad wasn't actually a light meal. When you add a certain amount of meat to it, it just becomes a side of lettuce with a hunk of prosciutto (not complaining here). The chili bowl was simple and tasty with perfected slow cooked beef and beans. Of course the cornbread was a sweet touch. However, the winner must go to our little friends in the back.... the washimi won tacos. Created by Fieri and a friend one drunk night (true story) it was a perfect fusion of cuisines. Japanese ingredients styled in a Mexican manner prepared by an American chef? Pretty fantastic.

Like all things, no one meal is perfect. At Bucchanal I was told the prime rib was tough and the lamb didn't hold too much flavor. But if you do the math you definitely get your money's worth plus an extra 3,500 calories. So in a city where creativity ranks from women in Party Store cop outfits to washimi won tacos... you get a large range of whats quality and whats not. The women? Not so much. The food? Willing to risk a heart attack to have more.




*Favorite